Jerusalem is, as always, much in the news
these days, contested between Jews, Muslims and Christians, and
fought over by Israelis and Palestinians.
This has especially been the case in recent
days, following U.S. President Donald Trump’s announcement that
Washington will recognize Jerusalem as Israel’s capital and move
its Tel Aviv embassy there.
There are, though, some oases of peace in the
Holy City. One of these, situated on Rehov HaMelech David in
West Jerusalem, across from the famous King David Hotel, is the
Jerusalem International YMCA, one of the landmarks outside the
Old City’s walls.
I would sometimes have a coffee and read the
newspapers in the Y when I was a student in the city in 1972. I
revisited the building – which was modernized and expanded a
decade ago – on my recent trip to Israel.
In 1924, Archibald Clinton Harte, General
Secretary of the International YMCA, raised the sum of one
million dollars towards the construction of the building. His
vision was that it would serve as a bridge between faiths and
cultures.
It opened in 1933, when Palestine was
governed as a League of Nations Mandate by Great Britain.
General Edmund Allenby, who had conquered Jerusalem from the
Ottoman Turks in 1917, spoke at the inaugural ceremony, and his
words, in Arabic, English, and Hebrew, remain inscribed at the
front gates of the building:
“Here is a place whose atmosphere is Peace,
Where Political and Religious Jealousies Can be Forgotten and
International Unity Can be Fostered and Developed.” His speech
was broadcast to a worldwide audience over the radio.
The event was attended by YMCA leaders from
around the world. Details of the building, with its elegant
arches, domes and tower, was described in the world press, which
hailed it as a wellspring of cultural, athletic, social and
intellectual life.
Damaged in the 1948 war that created the
Jewish state, the first concert broadcasts of the Kol Israel
(Voice of Israel) radio station were transmitted from the YMCA
auditorium.
Before 1967, its popular observation tower
afforded Jews a bird’s eye view of the nearby Old City and the
Western Wall when the city was still divided between Israel and
Jordan and Jews could not cross the urban boundary.
There is plenty of symbolism in the
building’s detailed wall paintings and exquisite masonry meant
to reflect inter-religious harmony. The 12 windows in the
auditorium represent the 12 tribes of Israel, Jesus’ disciples,
and Muhammad’s followers.
A high-domed bell tower thrusts out of the
white-limestone façade of the building. The stately entrance,
domed ceiling and tiled floors make it arguably the most
beautiful Y in the world.
The building, which now also houses the Three
Arches Hotel, has beautiful public areas with arches and lush
gardens. The private terraces and café offers a charming meeting
spot for tourists and those staying at the hotel.
Along with its cultural, educational, and
sports offerings, it runs community programs for Christian,
Jewish and Muslim families, including conflict mitigation
sessions. It serves as a gathering place for the
city’s divided populations.
One could spend time wandering around the
building and its porticos, or take the elevator to view the
magnificent carillon bells, made in Croydon, England at the
Gillett & Johnston bell foundry. When rung, you can hear the
35 bells throughout the city and there are sometimes concerts.
And the viewing balconies on the sixth floor,
for superb panoramic views of all parts of the city, are not to
be missed.
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